203 0 31.01.2025
Content
- Introduction
- White grape varieties
- Xinisteri
- Spurtiko
- Morokanella
- Promara
- Red grape varieties
- Mavro
- Maratheftiko
- Ophthalmo (Opthalmo)
- Giannoudi
Let’s talk about the local Cypriot grape varieties that are used in winemaking. In special terminology, the word Autochthon can be frequently used (fr. Autochtone, i.e. local, aboriginal). This is the name given to a grape variety that historically originated and developed in a particular region without significant outside influence.
Cypriot winemaking is largely based on the use of autochthonous varieties. Therefore, it will be important and interesting to learn about these varieties. By the way, for various reasons, the Cypriot autochthons have not spread around the world, so Cypriot wines can be considered an interesting regional product.
White grape varieties
Xinisteri
Photo by Erik Karits on Unsplash
Xynisteri is essentially the main Cypriot grape variety for the production of white wines. Due to the unpretentiousness of this variety, and also due to the fact that from the point of view of agricultural technology it is quite light, most of the vineyards of Cyprus are planted with this particular variety.
Xynisteri is used to produce both light, refreshing dry white wines and ancient dessert wines like Commandaria (combined with Mavro variety). The peculiarity of the Xinisteri variety is the highest yield among other varieties (up to 2.5-3 tons per hectare). On the one hand, this makes it a profitable raw material for wine. But, on the other hand, wines made from Xynisteri, as a rule, cannot boast of either quality or exquisite taste. These are fairly simple wines. Very few winemakers produce wines from selected Cynisteri (they do not sort grapes). There are two reasons for this: high yields and the fact that over the decades Xynisteri has formed a kind of market niche for cheap wine.
Xinisteri is grown on hilly plains and plateaus. The dry limestone of the rolling plains is the best place for Xynisteri to grow. However, when this variety is moved to a plateau (to heights of about 500-600 meters), its quality significantly improves (with a decrease in yield). The phenolic density of Cynisteri is low, so strong wines from this variety are difficult to find. And the aromatic range is a bit empty. Moving the vineyards to a higher zone (500-600 meters), where it is not so hot and the soil is more saturated with minerals, helps to remedy this situation a little.
Some of the wines from the Xinisteri variety are aged in oak barrels, which improves the aromatic picture. Sometimes Xynisteri is mixed with other white wine varieties such as Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Such approaches can both improve the aromatic range and provide an opportunity to make the wine stronger (up to 13.5%).
Xynisteri is also a minor component in the composition of Commandaria wine, where the Mavro red grape variety dominates. Commandaria, following an old recipe, is made by drying grapes to increase sugar concentration. Since 1993, Commandaria wine has had a Protected Designation of origin (PDO — Protected Designation of Origin).
Spurtiko
Photo by Czapp Botond on Unsplash
Sportico is a rare white grape variety that is grown in Cyprus in very small quantities: about 1% of the total area of all vineyards. It is grown in just a couple of wineries located in the Paphos district. Several more wineries are buying (but not growing) These grapes are used for wine production. Despite the interesting aroma that appears during fermentation, this variety has not become popular. Mainly because of the need to handle it carefully during the collection process. This is a very annoying circumstance, because technically it is possible to make quite decent wines from Spurtico (unlike Xynisteri, for example).
In modern agricultural technology, Spurtico is mostly planted in the same vineyards along with the Maratheftico variety. The fact is that it is an excellent variety for pollination of capricious Marateftiko grapes. Maratheftiko has flowers of only one sex and cannot self-pollinate. It is almost impossible to find vineyards where only Spurtiko grows. These grapes have a short ripening period, their clusters are medium and loose, and the berries are large, golden yellow. The variety itself does not have a bright aroma, fresh floral notes in the wine appear due to fermentation. The skin of these grapes is very thin and easily bursts, which is why the variety got its name — Spurtiko means “bursting” in Greek.
The wine from Spourtiko has a light yellowish-greenish tint. The alcohol content usually does not exceed 12%. It has a floral and citrus aroma. This variety is usually harvested ahead of time to protect its thin skin, as well as because of the need for abundant watering.
Sportico grows in limestone-rich soil at altitudes of 600-900 meters. As with most other varieties, the Spurtico vines are cut to form a “cup” shape. This shape allows you to protect the ripening grapes from the sun, which is important for Cyprus.
Morokanella
Photo by Markus Winkler on Unsplash
Morocanella is a mysterious white grape variety that is just beginning to regain its former glory. No one knows why it is called “little cinnamon”, but during the time of the Ottoman Empire, this grape was at the peak of popularity.
Morocanella is a real rarity today. Only three wineries in Cyprus produce wine from it. These grapes have adapted perfectly to the hot climate and calcareous soil of the island, but so far they remain in the shadow of more well-known varieties. Nevertheless, winemakers are beginning to actively take an interest in this variety and, perhaps, it will soon become popular again.
This variety is characterized by medium-sized loose clusters and large golden-yellow berries. Its peel contains a large amount of aromatic phenols, substances that open up into expressive floral notes during fermentation. The result is a wine with a vibrant aroma and a refreshing taste with lemon undertones.
Promara
Photo by Keegan Houser on Unsplash
Promara is a rare and unique variety of white grapes. Its name translates as “early maturation”. Today, only 2 wineries operate with this variety. This variety was first mentioned in 1893 under the names Promara or Glykopromon, but it began to gain real popularity quite recently — the first bottle of wine from this grape appeared only a few years ago. Therefore, it is still considered an experimental variety.
Why is it so important? Promara has opened up new opportunities for winemakers to create high-quality wines and has become an important part of the future of Cyprus autochthonous varieties. Its vine is powerful, with dense clusters and large berries. It tolerates drought perfectly, grows in calcareous soil (like the popular Xynisteri variety). Promara vineyards grow at an altitude of 800 meters and above. Due to its thick skin, it is resistant to diseases and pests.
The wine from this variety is fresh, with bright fruity notes. It is easily recognizable by the aromas of lemon, watermelon and exotic fruits. In addition, Promara is perfectly aged in oak barrels. A promising variety that may become the flagship in the near future.
Red grape varieties
Mavro
Photo by @KiprGuru
Mavro is the main red grape variety in Cyprus. Its name means “black” (Greek. Maúpo), and that really describes its dark color well. Back in 1877, the Italian ampelographer Count Giuseppe di Rovacenda named it Cipro Nero (“Cyprus black”). Today, this variety is better known as table grapes, but it is still used for the production of simple wines, as well as in zivaniye, brandy and traditional sweets made from grape juice — suzukosa and paluse.
Previously, Mavro was the basis for homemade red young wine, which was not only drunk, but also used for cooking dried meat and sausages. It produces large, dense clusters with thick skins, and due to its unpretentiousness it grows on a wide variety of soil types. This variety is famous for its high yields, which in the past made it especially popular among winemakers. However, his wines are usually light, faintly colored, slightly tart and not suitable for long aging.
But if you use special winemaking technologies and harvest from alpine vineyards, you can get richer wines. Then they are distinguished by their deep color, floral-fruity aroma, balanced taste and good acidity, which allows them to remain fresh for a long time. Rose wines from Mavro are also interesting, as they are fragrant, refreshing and well balanced.
A curious fact: unlike most European varieties, Mavro is not grafted onto American rootstocks, as Cyprus escaped the phylloxera epidemic that destroyed European vineyards in the 19th century. Mavro continues to grow on the ancient Cypriot rootstock.
Mavro’s important contribution to the Cypriot wine industry is his participation in the creation of the legendary Commandaria, where it is mixed with the white grapes of Xynisteri.
Maratheftiko
Maratheftiko is a super—popular red grape variety in Cyprus, which has been grown together with Mavro for a long time to add saturation and enhance color. In recent years, winemakers have begun to focus on this variety, and now the plantings of pure Maratheftico are steadily growing. It is believed that this variety has an exceptionally high potential: both refined pink and strong aged red wines are made from it.
This variety has once again become the focus of attention thanks to enthusiastic winemakers who have begun to revive rare and forgotten autochthonous varieties. Maratheftiko is easily recognizable: its wines are distinguished by their deep, bright color with a bluish tint. The fragrance is dominated by elegant floral notes (especially roses), cherry and hints of dark chocolate. The taste has a dense structure, velvety tannins and high acidity, which makes it ideal for aging.
The Maratheftiko vine produces medium-sized, friable bunches with small or medium-sized berries. However, this variety is accompanied by the difficulty of pollination (it has flowers of the same sex). One solution is to plant it next to pollinating varieties, for example, white Spurtiko.
Despite the difficulties with cultivation, Maratheftiko is considered the best red grape in Cyprus and, with the proper diligence of producers, is able to compete with well-known international varieties. It opens perfectly after aging in oak barrels and can age perfectly in a bottle, developing even greater complexity and depth of taste.
Ophthalmo (Opthalmo)
Photo by Keegan Houser on Unsplash
Ophthalmo is a rare red grape variety that is gradually disappearing from Cypriot vineyards. By itself, it is not very expressive, but it is often used in mixtures with Mavro and Maratheftiko, creating light red and pink wines. This variety is grown in small batches all over the island.
Features of Ophthalmology:
- Low acidity and high tannin content.
- A faint color that fades quickly.
- The aromas of red berries (strawberries, raspberries), but the taste itself can be inexpressive.
Because of these features, many winemakers are not particularly interested in Ophthalmology. However, if it is grown with minimal irrigation, it can produce wines with richer color, characteristic aroma and aging potential.
Modern winemakers have found a way to unlock its potential: they mix Ophthalmo with Cabernet Sauvignon, adding depth and richness to the flavors. This variety has not yet said its last word, and perhaps it has a chance for a rebirth in the new signature wines of Cyprus.
Giannoudi
Photo by Nacho Domínguez Argenta on Unsplash
Yannoudi is one of the most discussed grape varieties among Cypriot winemakers. This is a real godsend for those who are looking for a local red wine with character.
This variety has been cultivated by the KEO winery for a long time, but the first pure Yannudi wine appeared only in 2011. Interestingly, it was accidentally found in the garden of a local resident named Yannis, hence the name. The grapes have shown excellent taste qualities, but it is not easy to grow them — they have problems with flowering, which makes the harvest unstable.
What flavors can you expect?
Yannoudi gives a deep red color and rich taste with notes of wild berries, spices and Cypriot shrubs. It has something of the French Cote du Rhone, but with a slight astringency reminiscent of Italian Sangiovese. Its tannin structure is impressive, and it can produce both light and full-bodied wines, making it versatile for different tastes.
Currently, only about five wineries are working with Yannudi, but its popularity is growing, and it looks like the production of this wine will increase.
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