How to make a greenhouse with your own hands and from what. Step-by-step instructions

With the help of a greenhouse, you can create the right microclimate for growing temperature-sensitive plants. This structure is larger and more complex than a greenhouse, it is necessary to think over the heating system and temperature control

Together with experts, we understand the nuances and necessary materials for step-by-step creation of a greenhouse.

Content:

  • From what
  • Instruction manual
  • Expert comments

Experts in this material:

  • Vadim Gulin, Head of the Uralochka-Agro greenhouse and greenhouse production company;
  • Sergey Grishkov, an expert in suburban construction at Petrovich STD.

rbc.group Of what you can make a greenhouse out of

You can tighten the frame with agrofibre, polycarbonate or film

You can build a greenhouse quickly enough. The basic principle is the construction of a frame structure on which a light—permeable material is stretched or laid. If the structure is voluminous and heavy, you can pre-lay the foundation for it for better stability.

As for the location of the greenhouse on the site, it is important that it be a well—lit place (ideally, the south side), which will not be obscured by other buildings and tall trees. At the same time, the structure should be close enough to engineering communications for convenient timely watering. Ideally, on one side it will be protected from the wind so that there are no strong drafts.

Vadim Gulin, Head of the company for the production of greenhouses and greenhouses “Uralochka-Agro”:

— Before building a greenhouse, it is necessary to determine the main goals: what and how it is planned to grow, the period of operation (year-round with heating or only in warm weather), how long its maintenance and care of plants will take, the degree of automation, the level of reliability and comfort. Based on this, it is necessary to determine the budget of the future greenhouse, since costs and quality must correspond proportionally to all parts, and most importantly, to the results. For example, a year-round greenhouse with a high degree of automation is not built from budget materials.

The following types of greenhouse structures are distinguished:

  • arched (with the same reliability characteristics, the most economical in terms of materials and convenient in operation);
  • straight- walled (the most spacious, but keeps all the snow on its roof);
  • gable (spacious enough, sheds snow, but the most expensive);
  • teardrop-shaped (a cheaper version of a gable, but less spacious).

The construction of a greenhouse with a removable roof for the winter period allows you to reduce the cost — any lightweight frame structure is suitable, which can be designed for lower loads, since it does not have to hold snow, and wind loads for separation and shear can reach only 65 kg / sq. m.

Choose the right materials based on their individual characteristics and budget.

From fittings

The dimensions of the greenhouse can be varied by cutting fittings of the required length: for example, into arcs of 70-80 cm, which are installed at a distance of 1.3–1.5 m, after putting drip irrigation tubes on them.

Made of plastic pipes

You won’t need a foundation for this lightweight frame. Pipes are connected with fittings (then a soldering machine will be useful) or with bolts. Polypropylene pipes are easily cut and connected using couplings. Longitudinal inserts and arches are soldered with tees and crosses.

Made of wood

To quickly create a greenhouse, you can use a wooden beam. In this case, you will need to strengthen the base with steel corners with holes for fixing the beam — they are hammered into the ground, and the frame is attached to them with screws. The finished structure is easiest to wrap with a film.

Vadim Gulin:

— The frames are made of metal (galvanized steel), plastic or wood. The metal frame will be strong and durable, it will last more than 15 years. The service life of the wooden frame is up to ten years, as it comes into contact with the external environment in a wide range of temperatures and humidity. Portable seasonal greenhouses are made of plastic, which are assembled and cleaned for the winter or left without a roof so as not to carry the load from the snow.

Greenhouse coating

When you have decided on the frame, consider the coating.

Made of glass

To create a large, bright greenhouse, glass seems to be the most obvious choice — it does not change its properties under the influence of sunlight and is resistant to chemicals used to treat plants. Glass panels can be easily replaced if damaged, including with used material.

The light falling on the greenhouse does not dissipate, but focuses on one area depending on the time of day, which is why the plantings can be burned down. For a glass greenhouse, it is necessary to think over the foundation and a strong frame, and the work itself is quite difficult, so it is better to trust professionals.

Made of polycarbonate

This coating is easy to wash, it transmits light well and does not break in case of mechanical damage

This material is several times lighter than glass, which reduces the load on the frame. In addition, it is resistant to deformation and durable — a greenhouse made of high-quality polycarbonate will last 12-15 years. Another advantage is the runoff of condensate: water droplets will not fall on plants.

Of the disadvantages, the frequent appearance of scratches is noted. In large quantities, they impede the light transmission abilities of polycarbonate. At the same time, it is necessary to choose a good quality material, otherwise the greenhouse will work worse after a couple of seasons of operation.

Vadim Gulin:

Polycarbonate is a very durable material, most often used for both the summer and autumn-winter seasons. There are lightweight and budget options with a service life of up to five to seven years, comfortable and average — up to ten years, premium — up to 20 years of manufacturer—guaranteed service life. The main difference is in the density of the material (respectively, for 4 mm SEC — 0.45—0.52 kg/sq. m, 0.53–0.65 kg/sq. m, 0.66 kg/sq. m. m or more — premium) and UV protection (absent; on one side; on both sides). Positive: it delays UV radiation well, transmits and diffuses light well, is resistant to temperature changes, has increased resistance to vertical and shock loads, and is durable. The disadvantage is the high price.

From the film

Sergey Grishkov says that the simplest option is a greenhouse made of film: “It is quite easy to mount it yourself, the risk of injury in this case is also minimal. A light-stabilized film with a density of 200 mk, with the right step between the arcs, will last two to three years.

When choosing a film or polycarbonate, the risk of injury is minimal, but it is still important to adhere to basic safety rules: work carefully with tools, use gloves and safety glasses, and be careful when performing work.

The material is easy to install on a frame of any shape and change in case of damage. But the film is easy to tear, slightly hooked with a garden tool. Ideally, it is worth completely updating the coverage every year. The film rustles a lot from the wind, keep this in mind if you want to avoid unnecessary annoying sounds. In addition, condensate accumulates quickly under it, and pollution worsens the light-transmitting properties of the material. The elasticity of the film is both its advantage and disadvantage: if there are many trees near the greenhouse, in autumn abundant foliage will fall on the roof, bend it and tear at high loads.

Vadim Gulin:

— Polyethylene films vary in thickness: they range from 50 to 250 microns, with and without UV protection. Advantages: cheap material, easy to use, good light transmission and thermal insulation. Cons: short-lived, not suitable for use in winter.

From spunbond

Spunbond is a lightweight and thin nonwoven fabric made of polypropylene fiber. It transmits air and light well, but is much more expensive than film. Spunbond is suitable for greenhouses operated in early spring and late autumn, as it protects well from frost, but it is weakly resistant to strong winds and is water permeable.

Vadim Gulin reminds that the greenhouse structure should not be damaged by natural influences: “According to statistics, at least 100 greenhouses fly away in the Moscow region per year, causing damage to property and human health. The owner of the greenhouse is responsible for this. It is necessary to securely attach the greenhouse to the ground with special screw anchors. It is necessary to provide for the stability of the structure to snow loads in winter (an arched greenhouse of 3 × 4 m should withstand a load on its sloping part of the roof up to 1200 kg, and a straight—walled one – up to 2400 kg).”

When installing the roof, it is necessary to use appropriate materials that can ensure the reliability and durability of the greenhouse. Ultraviolet radiation harms plants and destroys materials. For example, if you use a polyethylene film without UV protection, then the greenhouse will be designed for use during one season. There are special films with UV protection, they are more expensive, but they provide a long service life — from two to five years. Cellular polycarbonate is expensive, but durable, in addition to UV protection, it provides high thermal insulation, its service life is up to 20 years.

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How to make a greenhouse with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

It is better to provide in advance for the project not only the location and size of the greenhouse, but also the number of windows, heating options and door fastening

Regardless of the materials chosen, the greenhouse construction process should proceed from the creation of a plan to its step-by-step implementation. Decide on the location and design features, prepare all the necessary tools and follow the instructions:

  • Make a project. It is better to provide in advance not only the location and size of the greenhouse, but also the number of windows, heating options and door fastening;
  • Make an estimate. Calculating the amount of necessary materials will allow you to provide for the costs of the foundation, frame and coating, as well as additional expenses: for weather stations, thermometers and a heating system, if necessary;
  • To build the foundation, make a marking of the future greenhouse on the ground and dig a pit;
  • Make a frame. The process of creating it depends on the selected material, be guided by the initial drawing plan. If the greenhouse is large, it may be necessary to install additional supports, vertical and horizontal guides;
  • Fix the frame firmly on the foundation and proceed to the coating. For complex options, the help of professionals is useful, with simple ones, such as film, you can cope on your own. It is best to carry out work on a windless day, so that it is easier to stretch and fix the coating;
  • Equip the greenhouse with additional equipment. You can consider automatic watering, sprinkling or drip irrigation through pipes. Some summer residents prefer underground irrigation using a pipe system, this is the most difficult and expensive option, but the most effective.
  • Creating a drawing will allow you to evaluate the work front in advance and provide everything you need

    How to make a greenhouse. Expert advice

    Vadim Gulin:

    — The most economical greenhouse design is arched. The arches of such a greenhouse are recommended to be made of metal, which must be treated with an anti-corrosion coating. Hot dip galvanizing is best: it preserves the metal from oxidation for the longest time and, accordingly, allows the greenhouse to be operated for up to 15-20 years. At the same time, each arch must withstand the appropriate snow load, since it is the main bearing part of the greenhouse. If the distance between the arches for a 3 × 4 m greenhouse is 1 m, then the weight of such an arch (the amount of metal in it) should be at least 9 kg per arch. If the distance between the arches is 0.65 m, then the weight of one arch should be at least 7 kg. If you build a frame from other materials (wood, plastic), you need to carry out appropriate calculations of load resistance.

    Domestic greenhouses do not need a foundation. They are installed with a metal base on the ground or on a wooden / polymer beam using screw anchors. The beam is used for ease of installation, lifting the greenhouse to the height of the beam, insulation of the metal frame from aggressive soil. Usually, a bar of 100 × 100 cm, 50 × 100 cm is used, necessarily treated with substances that do not allow the tree to quickly collapse from the external environment. Oil-containing impregnations (hydrophobic oil or used machine oil) are best suited for this, since they provide the longest service life of the tree (up to ten years). Oil-free impregnations and conventional antiseptic impregnation are designed for a shorter service life (up to two to three years). A greenhouse on a timber foundation is not sensitive to heaving and warping of the soil.

    Sergey Grishkov, an expert in suburban construction at Petrovich STD:

    — If you need a greenhouse for year-round use, it is better to apply to a construction company for a project, because you need to take into account many nuances in heating (electric, convection, warm soil, furnaces), irrigation (automatic or semi-automatic, drip, irrigation) and climate (air recovery system).

    Greenhouse ventilation

    A simple ventilation system should be provided in the greenhouse. To do this, depending on the coating material, a couple of windows are left — areas where you can remove the film or open the transom. If you plan to use the greenhouse in the cold season, consider a heating system: infrared heaters or radiators for water heating will be useful.

    Observe safety precautions

    Vadim Gulin claims that it is possible to be injured when building any structure from any materials, if you do not observe safety precautions during work: “It is easier and more optimal to install structures made of solid profile galvanized pipe and cellular polycarbonate when installing a greenhouse directly on the ground using fast-screwed screw anchors for fastening to the ground.”

    It is better not to install a greenhouse close to a fence, other buildings on the site or trees

    The basic rules for the construction of a greenhouse

    Sergey Grishkov:

    — When building a greenhouse from scratch, you need to follow the basic rules:

  • Choose a suitable place for a greenhouse. How you install the greenhouse relative to the cardinal directions depends on its illumination throughout the day. There are two main options: the ends face east and west or north and south. The first scheme is relevant for areas with a lack of sun, but there is also a minus — the rays will always fall on one side of the building. In the second variant, before noon, the rays fall on the greenhouse from one side, after — from the other. Due to this, plants receive light more evenly, but the illumination becomes lower as the rays fall tangentially. It is better not to install a greenhouse close to a fence, other buildings on the site or trees. Firstly, the shade will reduce the illumination, which will lead to a poor harvest. Secondly, with this arrangement, snow drifts form — under the mass of snow, the greenhouse will form like a house of cards. If you place the greenhouse on a windy site, then in the season it will be blown through, which will reduce the temperature inside, and in winter a strong wind will blow away the snow mass. A good foundation and a fastening system will help protect you from the wind;
  • Think about the foundation. The tunnel mini-greenhouse is installed without a foundation, the reinforcement is driven directly into the ground. In other cases, the foundation depends on the type of soil. Loam and chernozem are quite dense, so you can put a light greenhouse on them without a foundation. On peat and sandy soil, the greenhouse may tilt, so it is better to use a foundation. It is better to replace dense clay soil by making a pillow of crushed stone and sand;
  • Think about the drainage device. It should definitely be done if the groundwater is located high, but it will not be superfluous to drain the upper waters that accumulate after precipitation;
  • Choose a flat area for a greenhouse, without strong height differences — then the installation of the foundation will be easier and more economical;
  • Install the greenhouse at a distance of at least 1 m from the adjacent plot and at least 2 m from other buildings. If you plan to use the greenhouse in winter, consider how you will bring electricity to it for additional heating and lighting. Perhaps in your case it would be better to place it closer to home;
  • Decide on the size of the greenhouse. It depends on the budget and the cultivation crops. For indeterminate plants (for example, tomatoes), a high greenhouse of 2.5–3m is required, since overheating of plants in low greenhouses leads to sterilization of flowers and, as a result, to a drop in yield. With a width of 2.5 m, two good beds can be installed. Often, with a greenhouse width of 3 m, they try to fit three beds, in this case they turn out to be narrow, the plants begin to shade each other, which leads to a decrease in yield. Eggplants and peppers grow well in tunnel mini-greenhouses. For large greenhouses of more than 6 m, it is very important to make ventilation.
  • Mistakes in the construction of a greenhouse:

  • Do not fix the foundation made of timber. Due to the windage and poor fastening, a strong wind can move or flip the greenhouse, so it is better to fix the beam with profile or steel VGP pipes. Pipes are hammered into the ground, then a bar is attached to them;
  • Use an unsuitable frame. For example, if you plan to install a glass greenhouse, the frame should be metal, and plastic is suitable for tunnel mini-greenhouses;
  • Choose the wrong arc pitch. The distance between the arcs can be from 1 m to 0.5 m — the smaller it is, the higher the strength of the greenhouse. If there are heavy snowfalls in your region or you will not be able to clear the greenhouse of snow, take a smaller step between the arcs;
  • Install the polycarbonate on the wrong side. There must be a side outside the greenhouse that is covered with UV protection, otherwise the material will collapse under the influence of sunlight. The side of the sheet with the manufacturer’s logo is covered with protection;
  • Save on polycarbonate. Thin material will be more economical at the time of purchase, but it is unlikely to survive the winter. The most common and most suitable option for greenhouses is 4 mm thick or more;
  • Do not process the wood. All wood (timber, boards) must be treated with an antiseptic, it will protect against rotting and prolong the service life of the entire structure.
  • Vadim Gulin:

     — The most common mistake is saving on materials. During the construction of greenhouses, in order to save money, low-quality materials are often used that do not correspond to the parameters of the reliability of the greenhouse design: thin-walled pipes, budget SEC, an increased step between the supporting parts of the frame (arcs), inefficient elements of attachment to the ground or a small number of them, which leads to destruction or damage to the greenhouse in the near future.

    A ribbon foundation and its varieties (brick, concrete or stone foundation) and a foundation made of FBS without hydrothermal insulation and drainage system will quickly collapse during freezing and conduct cold into the greenhouse. Such violations lead to a fairly rapid (in two to three years) destruction of the foundation and collapse of the greenhouse.

    It is also important to attach to the ground. Unreliable materials (pins, stakes, ground hooks) are often used when fixing greenhouses. Just a pin driven into the ground without a horizontal part of the structure in the ground does not reliably protect the greenhouse from tearing off during a hurricane. Because after a minimum time, from three months to six months, such a pin is loosened and easily removed by hand from the ground. There are special mini-piles of the “anshnek” type, designed to attach various structures to the ground, reuse, quick installation with a conventional wrench and withstand enormous loads. They are screwed into the ground and resist being pulled out of the ground with the values calculated in their characteristics, have a screw diameter of 60 mm and ensure reliable retention in the ground at maximum loads up to 500 kg per separation from the ground. Any other designs must be tested in the same way and calculated for use.

    In which cases it is necessary to do without the help of professionals

    The help of professionals may be needed when calculating the maximum loads and reliability of the structure. These loads can be calculated using the building codes of the SNIP “Loads and impacts” or seek help from specialists. If you build a greenhouse or other structure without any engineering calculations, then two possible results are: a complete loss of investment in the near future or prohibitively high costs to achieve obviously excessive design characteristics. If you do not make calculations, and the greenhouse is small and alone, you can build it from thicker–walled pipes of 1.5-2 mm in increments of 0.65 or 0.5 m, but the budget may exceed the optimal one by two to three times.

    See also:

    • How to design a flower bed in the country: instructions and tips from designers
    • Which swing to choose for the cottage: main characteristics and expert advice
    • Landscape design: how to equip a country house

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