The whole world is now open to remote workers, one might say — this is greatly facilitated by digital nomad visas. At the moment, they are issued by a huge number of countries on all continents. And Spain is no exception.
Vera Zhukova has been living in Valencia for more than a year on a digital nomad visa. During this time, she got a visa, found a place to live, dealt with taxes and experienced all the joys and difficulties of Spanish life.
In this interview, Vera shares practical tips and observations that will be useful to anyone who is thinking about moving to Spain as a nomad or is just interested in the life of digital nomads.
I dreamed of traveling not only during my vacation.
About why I decided to become a nomad
— Tell me a little about yourself: how old are you, what do you do?
— My name is Vera, in Russia I lived in She was in St. Petersburg and engaged in the coffee business. I have been a digital nomad for more than two years now, working as a marketing director for a small European IT company.
I like to travel not as an ordinary tourist, but to immerse myself in local life and explore the surrounding nature. Whether it’s walking in the mountains of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego or climbing Elbrus and Olympus — all this causes me genuine delight. My dream was not to limit such adventures to vacations, but to be able to work from anywhere in the world. I’m glad I did it.
— How did your nomad journey begin? What are the pros and cons of this lifestyle?
— At the beginning of March 2022, I left my beloved St. Petersburg. I had a Finnish Schengen visa, and from that moment my nomadic life began. But so that it would not end quickly, I found a job that would give me the opportunity not to be tied to a place and bring in income sufficient for my lifestyle. This is the key condition, unless, of course, you are the lucky owner of the inheritance.
I have changed 7 countries and 35 apartments in a year: I lived for six months in Belgrade, Serbia, and have been living in Spain for more than a year.
About the process of obtaining a digital nomad visa
— Tell us your story of getting a digital nomad visa in Spain.
— To obtain a digital nomad visa in Spain, it is necessary to collect a package of documents, some of which require translation by a sworn translator and apostille.
At the time of my request, the following documents were required:
- The employment contract is not with a Spanish company that has been in existence for more than a year. There were also requirements for the duration of work in this company. If the employment contract is concluded for more than a year, then the visa will be given for a longer period. I got a visa for 3 years, which is the maximum period.
- The salary must be at least 2,646 euros per month. If you move together, the applicant’s salary should be from 3639 euros, and if there are children — even more.
- An apostilled diploma, if you work in your specialty. If not, a previous work contract with a similar position for a period of 3 years or more.
- An extract from the bank about the account status.
- Signed “Declaracion responsable de compromiso de alta en la Seguridad Social”, which says that I will register myself and pay taxes.
- Resume.
- A recommendation from the employer.
- Apostilled certificates of non-conviction from the places where she lived for the last 2 years.
- Medical insurance for a year. I paid 775 euros for it.
- State duty (75 euros).
- A completed questionnaire (there is a special form).
I prepared all these documents with the help of a lawyer. 21 days after submitting the requery, I was asked for another bank statement with only salary receipts, and certificates of completed work for my employer.
A few days later, the visa was approved. My husband applied after me — everything was easier for him, since he joined my visa.
I had a Schengen visa at the time of application, and I was applying from Spain. This, as far as I know, speeds up the process compared to filing through consulates.
It took me 3 months to collect all the documents. I was one of the first to receive a visa in April 2023.
Nomad Visa is a type of residence permit. At the end of its term, I will need to apply for an extension, providing reasons for this (namely, proof that I have a contract and income). After 5 years of living in the country, I have the right to apply for permanent residence, and after 10 years — for a passport.
Serbia, 2022-2023
In Spain, the cons are the reverse side of the pros.
About life and adaptation in Spain
— How does it feel to be a nomad in Spain? Share your impressions.
— I am very comfortable in Spain. I think it depends a lot on the mood. I try to treat life here with curiosity and understanding, realizing that there is no ideal place: there is no country with a climate like in Greece, salaries like in Norway, taxes like in the Emirates, food prices like in Thailand, fun like in Spain, but at the same time calm like in Switzerland. After all, we choose not only the pros, but also the cons of the country.
In Spain, the cons are the reverse side of the pros. People here are not fixated on work, they maintain a healthy work-life balance, they have time for family, friends, hobbies and countless holidays. But the downside of this is unpredictability. For example, in the opening hours of establishments.
Spaniards are very sociable, and that’s great, but sometimes it can be exhausting. For example, you can stand in line at the checkout, shifting from one foot to the other, and the person who has already paid will discuss something with the cashier for a few more minutes.
There’s no rush here. Time is a rather conventional concept — “Tomorrow” does not literally mean tomorrow, but rather “sometime later, maybe never, but definitely not today.”
There is no domestic rudeness, a very low level of aggression. Perhaps this energy comes out on endless noisy holidays. It’s fun when you’re on vacation, but when you live here all the time — sometimes you need to be patient or leave during the holiday. For example, Fayas in Valencia, which is celebrated for almost a month, is accompanied by processions, firecrackers, blocked streets.
Spain, 2023-2024
— Spain is not the most digital country. The Spanish bureaucracy is very annoying at first, for example, when you open a bank account (it took me a month) or apply for documents.
Probably, the banks that were most surprised were not happy with me and my money at all. There are only a few hours a week when you can come and open an account, and for this you need to show a stack of documents, including those that prove the origin of the funds. All of this should be translated into Spanish.
There is such a feature: in the same bank, but in different branches, different employees may require different documents. To open an account with BBVA bank, I had to go around 6 branches: somewhere they demanded that my employment contract be in Spanish and not in English, somewhere the contract was in order, but they asked me to translate invoices by a sworn translator, etc. Not all transactions can be carried out through the cash register, and the ATM may not have an English interface.
But when this quest is completed, it becomes easier.
Spain, 2023-2024
— It was difficult to get used to the fact that most shops, including supermarkets and markets, are closed on Sundays. In August, almost everything outside the tourist area is closed for a month — people go on vacation. Yes, the entire staff of some copy center goes on vacation — come back in September. Services stop, it is difficult to rent housing (this does not apply to tourists), etc.
The heat and the half—dead city with shuttered shops are probably my hardest month here. But on the other hand, I am glad that employees can spend time with their families, relax, and there is no dispute in the team about who goes on vacation when.
It took me a long time to get used to having a siesta in an already unpredictable schedule. I’m still not used to late dinners. In Spain, it is difficult to eat at 18 o’clock, most establishments are open at lunch from 12 to 15, then a break until 20:30. It disciplines and saves the budget — we have dinner at home, as we used to.
Here is an “interesting” delivery: the courier has never called in advance, only having already appeared directly at the door. Sometimes you can choose the delivery time in the application, but this does not mean anything — the courier can arrive a day before the selected time, ring the doorbell and ask where I am. In Spanish, of course.
Of course, what I think are disadvantages are not for the locals. For them, this is a familiar way of life. And it’s easier to live by accepting it rather than criticizing it.
One day I met an American woman who met her future Spanish husband in Samara.
— How was your adaptation in the country?
— Much easier than I expected. Like many people, I read about the stages of adaptation and was afraid that it would take years.
The first task was to solve household issues: finding an apartment, registration, obtaining an ID, opening a bank account, opening an autonomo (an analogue of an individual entrepreneur) and an account for it, searching for an accountant to register a company and navigate tax payment issues.
The first accountant found based on recommendations from the chats made a mistake that could have cost me 3,000 euros, so I had to look for another specialist. This is one example of unforeseen expenses and stressful situations that can overtake any nomad.
At the same time, I worked, and in my free time I studied the city, culture, restored my knowledge of Spanish, studied English and prepared for the marathon.
Now I realize that I set myself too many tasks at the same time. It was worth giving yourself more time and setting priorities better. In December, I suspended my Spanish classes, as it turned out to be difficult to combine the study of two languages, and I was unhappy with the progress in both. Spanish remained at A2 level. I focused on improving my English, which is necessary for me to work.
In September, we went on vacation for 2 weeks to Finland and the Netherlands, and when I returned, I felt at home — here they are my palm trees, my sea and coffee on the balcony in the morning. I have the strength to meet new people.
I guess I finally began to consider this city my own when I ran a marathon through its streets.
— There is a large Russian-speaking community in Spain. You can live in this “bubble” with minimal contact with the local culture. There are even shops with familiar products: buckwheat, Baltika nine and cottage cheese. Many do so: they turn to Russian-speaking realtors, rent housing from compatriots, visit Russian-speaking specialists (manicurists, barbers, cosmetologists).
Russian-language entertainment is organized here: stand-up, concerts, quizzes, events for children and interest clubs for adults. There are many cafes and bars with the usual service for us, where cheesecakes and Napoleon are served.
For many, this is an important support during the adaptation period and a way to cope with homesickness. It’s wonderful that there is such an opportunity.
I sometimes buy buckwheat and have attended several Russian-language events; I even organized my own. However, 80% of my communication is in English. There is a huge English-speaking community of people from all over the world. For me, this is an opportunity to get to know other cultures, meet people with a completely different background, and make my view of the world more voluminous.
For example, I attended HIIT training in the park, after which we went to drink coffee together, and it was always a very international party: a coach from England, several girls from Australia, Venezuela, the USA, a Spaniard, a Dutchman. One day I met an American woman who told me that she had met her Spanish husband in Samara.
In addition, I go to English-language meetings of digital nomads, excursions and stand-up performances, where not professional comedians, but the nomads themselves perform. It is very interesting to listen to what people are joking about. Pakistan, India, Germany, Israel, USA, Estonia.
Valencia is a multicultural, friendly and open city. I love being a part of this community. I have not encountered discrimination or stereotypes. After learning that I am from Russian russians usually talk about their Russian acquaintances or note that Russians speak English well and generally learn languages quickly (which is surprising for us, who are always embarrassed by our accent and mistakes).
— Is English enough for life?
— Probably not. There are countries like the Netherlands, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, where you can live with only English for years. Spain is definitely not such a comfortable country in this regard.
At first, you can do without Spanish, but you will often have to use the services of an interpreter (in banks, government agencies, when renting housing and issuing sim cards).
However, ignorance of Spanish is not an obstacle to moving if you are willing to pay for additional services and endure temporary difficulties.
In the long run, you will still have to learn Spanish. If you move with your children to bilingual regions (for example, Catalonia), be prepared for additional difficulties at school.
I really like that Spaniards support all attempts to speak their language. They will definitely praise you: “You are so good! You have good Spanish,” “You’re getting better at speaking.” It’s very inspiring.
Those who say that Spain is a cheap country may have come from Norway.
About finding a place to live in Spain
— Where do you live in Spain? How does the rental market work there in general, what are the prices?
— I live in Valencia on the Mediterranean coast — it is the third largest city in Spain after Madrid and Barcelona. If we consider long-term rentals, then basically, options from a year are available (but you can also find them for 6 months).
With an annual lease, you can get a residence permit, and it does not depend on the owner’s desire: just come to the municipality with a contract and documents confirming the landlord’s ownership of the housing. Based on this, you will be given an official certificate of registration at your place of residence.
Realtors here are busy people and are in no hurry to offer you something, or offer something that only they have in the agency. Therefore, it is more effective to choose for yourself what is suitable for the condition, budget, and then give it to the realtor so that he already conducts all subsequent communication.
In Spain, there is a problem with payouts (seizure of housing) and, unfortunately, this affects the search for an apartment. Spaniards are afraid to rent to foreigners, especially if they work for a non-Spanish company. Despite the fact that my salary is much higher than the average Spanish salary, some of the owners refused to show us housing. Landlords are afraid that at some point we will stop paying and it will be difficult for them to evict us (this is done through the courts, and the courts here are slow). All foreigners have such difficulties, there are no prejudices because of their nationality.
On the advice of friends, I made a presentation about what a wonderful, successful and athletic family we have — we don’t smoke, we don’t have parties. The apartment owners look not only at this, but also at the employment contract and account statement.
The owners of the three apartments we liked refused. I saw a cockroach in another one and changed my mind about filming. In another, I was confused by the actions of the realtor on the part of the owner, when they began to put a lot of pressure on me, “come with cash, we’ll sort everything out on the spot-we’ll sign, because another couple is applying for this apartment, ready to deposit money today.” I don’t like to make expensive decisions in a hurry under pressure, so I refused.
— As a result, we rented a small, newly renovated one-bedroom apartment in the very center of the city, in a building after major restoration. We had been negotiating for a long time about several points in the contract — the owners wanted us to commit to live for 3 years, but we were not ready for such conditions.
The cost of our rent is 1200 euros per month. In addition, payments for communal services and Internet within 200 euros are added. We also paid the realtor on the part of the owner, plus a deposit (the amount for 3 months of rent) and the amount for one month in advance. As far as I know, the deposit amount in Spain was limited in the summer, and now you don’t have to pay so much.
It took us 3 weeks to find an apartment. There is an option to rent a house through Russian-language telegram channels, but according to my observations, the offer is very limited there, and prices are higher.
What to look for when renting an apartment in Spain:
- The presence of bars and restaurants under the windows. I checked the opening hours of the establishments on the Google map. Ideally, come on a Friday evening and explore the situation. Spaniards and tourists can be very noisy, and if you don’t like something, you won’t be able to move out.
- Air conditioning and heating. Only 35% of the housing in Valencia is heated. Locals are used to living in such apartments in winter in the format of “let’s dress warmly, buy thick-soled slippers.” But if you sit and work from home, it will be cold, and people from Eastern Europe, accustomed to the same temperature in an apartment in winter and summer, is very uncomfortable in such rooms. In July and August, it is difficult to survive without air conditioning, especially to work efficiently.
- The size of the boiler. It is desirable that there be more, since there is usually no centralized hot water.
- Double-glazed windows. Good double-glazed windows will protect you from noise from the street, neighbors, and from heat loss in winter.
- The proximity of dumpsters. They are often picked up at night, and it is very noisy, especially green containers with glass.
- The quality of the houses. Due to the warm climate, inexpensive housing is being built here with very thin walls. I once filmed this on Airbnb — it felt like a neighbor was washing in my closet.
- Layouts. We need to be prepared for unusual layouts for us.
- Infrastructure. It is best to see the desired area in person. About the same areas in telegram chats they write “My favorite area” and “I don’t advise anyone.” Everyone has different needs, and a family with two young children and my husband and I have very different ideas about a good neighborhood. We are not interested in playgrounds, schools, clinics, closed courtyards. But you need a place to run and an active city life.
Netherlands, 2023-2024
About the cost of living in Spain
— What are the prices in Spain?
— Those who say that Spain is a cheap country may have come from Norway. Yes, you can find wine for 1.5 euros, but it is unlikely that you will want to drink it.
The cost of food varies: some products (for example, shrimp) are cheaper than in Russia, while beef is much more expensive. In general, our food expenses have doubled compared to St. Petersburg.
The cost of gasoline is about 1.7 euros per liter. Public transport in Spain is quite affordable: the cost of one trip is less than euros. Domestic flights can be very profitable, especially when booking early and traveling without luggage. For example, we managed to fly from Valencia to Bilbao for only 15 euros.
However, after the COVID-19 pandemic, with the growing popularity of remote work, prices for short-term rental housing have increased significantly. In the center of Madrid, a modest room for two costs from 150 euros, and a room in an apartment costs from 80 euros. Barcelona and the resort areas are even more expensive in the season.
Dinner in a restaurant for two without alcohol will cost at least 40 euros.
For mobile communication (20 GB of Internet, unlimited calls, no roaming in the EU), I pay 23 euros per month under an annual contract. Such tariffs are available if you have a resident’s card. Prepaid SIM cards are offered for non-residents, which not all operators have (for example, Lebara), and are sold in specialized Locutorio stores. Home Internet costs us 30 euros per month.
— How much money do you need to live in Spain, based on your experience?
— It seems to me that the limits that have been introduced for obtaining a nomad visa are quite adequate (2,646 euros for one and 3,600 for two). It won’t be a luxurious life, but it will be quite comfortable. You can live on smaller amounts, but already saving quite seriously — for example, renting a room, not an apartment.
As for taxes, Spain has a progressive scale of taxation: in addition to income tax, you also need to pay a social contribution. The payout amounts vary slightly depending on the region. I paid about 6,000 euros in taxes last year. There will be more this year.
Italy, 2022
About traveling around the country and leisure
— How do you spend your leisure time in Spain and beyond?
— I like running, swimming, traveling. I walked 320 km. along the Camino de Santiago mountain route. I dream of coming back and going this way again. I love little weekend trips: go to some nice city nearby, go to the track. And I also love snowboarding: so far I’ve only skated in the Alps, but I plan to master the Spanish slopes as well.
Valencia, where I live, is a very sporty city. It actively promotes itself as the “Ciudad del Running” (City of Running). In addition to large-scale races in the form of the Valencian half marathon and marathon, various races are organized every week in the city and its surroundings.
It is especially touching to watch the events in the small neighboring towns (pueblos). There, locals come out to support the runners, and elderly people take chairs outside in front of the house so as not to miss such an important event in the life of their usually quiet town.
There is a 9-kilometer-long park in Valencia, located in a former riverbed. It is fully equipped with sports fields, running and cycling paths. For me, as a marathon runner, it is a gift. If you are not in the mood for active recreation, you can have a picnic in the shade of trees or visit Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Arts and Sciences) — an architectural complex resembling the city of the future. Open-air discos are also held there.
Madrid and its luxurious Retiro Park have a special place in my heart; I like to visit my favorite coffee shops and just walk along the streets where it is so nice to get lost. I approach visits to museums selectively: I can specially come to Madrid for a few hours to visit the Prado, or go to Bilbao for the Guggenheim Museum. I was also impressed by Asturias and the oceanic coast of Spain.
In general, I admire the diversity of the regions of Spain. These differences manifest themselves in everything — in culture, architecture, nature, and even languages. That’s why I love traveling around this country so much.
“You are becoming free.” Three stories about how digital nomads live: what they like, how much they spend, and how they plan to move
About the pros and cons in the life of a digital nomad
Among the advantagesfor myself, I note the opportunity to combine life and travel: you live in beautiful places, get to know the local culture, enjoy the flavor, get to know people with backgrounds that are very different from yours. It’s damn interesting!
And at the same time, you are free to move on. You get rid of unnecessary things, you become freer from the culture of endless consumption — you profess minimalism.
Disadvantages:
- My cat doesn’t like being a nomad. Traveling with animals is a reference and all kinds of requirements in different countries, as well as special plane tickets that you need to buy a lot in advance.
- Temporary housing is always much more expensive than long-term options.
- It is more difficult to maintain friendship and find new friends, often changing locations.
- Adapting to a new place is always stressful and requires financial and time costs: until you figure out which products are delicious in the supermarket, where to find the right services, and where to make delicious coffee.
- Booking tickets and finding accommodation also takes a lot of time. With the location, you can not guess and accidentally settle in the ghetto, realizing after the fact that those photos on Airbnb were heavily photoshopped. Or, for example, the Internet speed turns out to be unsuitable for remote work.
Therefore, the life of nomads, although it looks like an endless vacation, is not. This lifestyle is associated with certain stress and, of course, is not suitable for everyone.
Workation with the team in Turkey
Tips for future digital nomads
— What advice can you give to those who are just about to become a digital nomad?
— Be open to new things. It is impossible not to compare, but try not to put labels based on previous experience. Be curious and respectful of the peculiarities of the country.
There is a cool book “The Culture Map”, which helps to get rid of stereotypes (for example, that some nations are lazy, insincere, etc.), and build relationships with people from different cultures, understanding the differences and their causes.
Take care of yourself, do not try to combine crazy movements and adventures with intensive remote work. Give yourself time to adapt.
Be prepared that this lifestyle is more expensive, be more relaxed about the loss of money that accompanies a new experience.
Translate and apostille all diplomas and marriage certificates in advance. Write a large power of attorney to a loved one who will be able to represent your interests in government agencies, receive certificates in Of Russia.
Make yourself a second passport. Very handy in case one gets lost.
And if you really want to try it! This is not a one-way ticket, you can try on this lifestyle for yourself, understand whether it suits you personally or not, and return if you want.
Greece, 2022
Turkey, 2022
Author
Yulia Yanukovych Editor-in-Chief
I am responsible for the work of the editorial office. I write expert interviews and guides.